Nathan Dakdouk, the 52-year-old in-house baker of Suzanne Goin's new Brentwood restaurant, is crying. Nothing is wrong in the bakery at Tavern, the newest restaurant for Goin and her partner Caroline Styne. There is no crisis that needs his attention--there are plenty of hours of baking and environmental variables that could change all that--but right now, the thing that has him so emotional, is his love of bread.